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1. Excavation and Site work

2. Framing and Reinforcement

3. Placing the Concrete

4. Finishing the Concrete

5. Control Joints and Sealers



We use ground protection mats that are engineered to protect your lawn from heavy equipment, allowing us to access the site with minimal or no damage.

Tier 1

Equipment will only drive over the lawn protection mats, leaving you with a virtually undisturbed lawn.
The downside to this is the high cost of the mat rental and the labor to install and dissemble the mats. The
cost is determined on a per basis.

Tier 2

Our most popular lawn protection system.
Before the construction process begins, the operator designates the needed pivot/ turning
points on the job site. An 8 foot by 8 foot area of lawn protection mats are laid down at the pivot
points. The equipment operator will drive straight until he gets to a designated pivot point, and
once the equipment is on the lawn protection mat, the operator is able to make the turn without
damaging the grass. This has the largest cost to protection ratio. On a typical patio, this tier will
cost approximately $250

Tier 3

This is typically reserved for a new construction setting, or where there is no needs for lawn protection.
We use only track equipment, and with that are a couple benefits.

Reduced Ground Pressure: The tracks of a skid steer distribute the weight of the machine
over a larger surface area compared to tires, which helps to reduce the ground pressure. This
means that a track skid steer is less likely to leave tracks or ruts on the lawn, and can better
navigate over soft or uneven ground without causing damage.

Improved Traction: The tracks of a skid steer can provide better traction compared to tires,
especially in wet or muddy conditions. This can help prevent the skid steer from slipping or
sliding on the lawn, which can cause damage to the turf.

Excavation and site work

Excavation And Site Work

We know that a concrete slab is only as good as the base under it. That is why we take great effort to properly prepare the site where the concrete will be poured. Once the topsoil is stripped away from the site, it is back filled with gravel approximately 4 inches deep. The gravel is compacted to insure a solid base. Compacting the gravel will prevent the gravel from settling, which could result in the concrete cracking.


Framing and reinforcement

Framing And Reinforcement

The next step is to build the forms and install the proper reinforcement. A very important part to
this is that the patio slopes away from the house, ensuring the rain water runs away from the
house. We typically slope the patio 1/8” drop every foot. For example, if your patio is 12 feet
wide, the slope from the house to the edge of the patio will be 1.5”
After the forms are built, we lay 1/2” re-bar around the outer perimeter (1) and 10 ga. wire
mesh in the center (2). We than fasten an expansion joint to the foundation of the house (3) The
concrete is poured up to the expansion joint. This expansion joint allows the concrete to
expand and contract as the temperature changes. We than drill into the foundation and install
re-bar rods to tie the house and patio together (4)Sandwiched between the house and the
expansion joint is a sheet of plastic (5). We take keeping your house clean very seriously. After
the concrete is poured the plastic is cut and there is no concrete residue on the house.


placing the concrete

Placing The Concrete

The concrete is poured 4” thick and around the perimeter of a patio 5.5” thick. Pouring it
thicker around the perimeter strengthens the edge. Also since patios are slightly elevated above
the surrounding landscape, the thicker edge goes down past the finish landscape ensuring the
bottom of the slab is hidden.


Finishing the concrete

Finishing The Concrete

There are several options for your finished concrete

Steel troweled finish
This is used when a smooth floor is desired. Basement, shop, and garage floors 

Broom finish
This is the most common finish for exterior concrete. This leaves small ridges on the surface of the
concrete. This ensures a non-slip surface as well as opens the surface of the concrete to allow the water in
the concrete to escape. Which helps in freeze and thaw conditions.

Complete Stamped concrete Patio
This is a beautiful option for exterior concrete. There are many styles and colors to cater to your

Stamped and broom finished combo with an edge liner
This is a great alternative to a complete stamped patio. Before pouring the concrete, special forms called
edge liners are attached to the forms. These edge liners give the face of the concrete a slate/ rock finish.
When the concrete is poured the outer 1 foot perimeter of the patio is stamped and the center is broom
finished. This makes the patio look like it has a rock border with a live edge. The stamped edge can be
stained and then sealed with a glossy finish to add even more contrast. This is a great option for
decorative concrete for a fraction of the cost of a complete stamped patio.


Control joints and clean up

Control Joints And Clean Up

The final step is cutting the control joints. Control joints are either cut into the concrete or troweled in.
They are typically 1” deep for a 4” thick slab. The control joints “control” cracking. When the concrete
cracks after it is fully cured, it will follow the control joints, hiding the cracking from the surface.




A concrete sealer is recommended to be applied 30 days after the concrete is placed.  This will protect the concrete surface from damage and staining. This is especially beneficial if salt will be applied to the concrete.


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